Friday, December 23, 2011
Merry Christmas!
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
3 Super League
Last Friday I competed in the third and final round of the Super League here in London, which was a local bouldering competition with very high standards in both competitors and the quality of the problems. I competed in the adult category, to get a chance to practise competing hard problems.
All the 3 rounds went well and in the overall I ended up third, which I am really happy with. I’m pleased with the result, as there were a lot of really good and strong climbers in the competition! I also felt really strong during the competitions and especially the last one.
It’s not too long to Christmas holiday now and I can really feel that in school as the workload is just increasing even more right now! So I have to stay up very late every night to be able to finish all the work, and I’m just exhausted for the moment!!
Oscar
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Swedish Junior Championship Bouldering
Last weekend I travelled to Sweden to compete in The Swedish Bouldering Championship, to try to defend my two titles from the years before. The competition was held in a small city in the south part of Sweden called VĂ€stervik.
The qualification on Saturday evening went quite well and I was able to do 7 problems out of 8. The problems were of high quality and of different styles. I got second there and was ready for the final the next day.
In the final on Sunday morning after the being in the very small isolation for a long time, as the competition was more than 1,5 hour late, it was time to battle the first problem. I actually struggle with the first part of the problems, found it hard to get my long body in the right position, but was able to do it on my fourth try. The people that were top 3 from the qualification all struggled with this one, weirdly. The two problems after that were extremely easy and every one flashed them, so it wasn’t possible to take back the last point from the first problem!
Time for the last and very hard problem, I would get some good attempts on it but I wasn’t be able to top it. At least I got second highest on it!
Because of my poor result on the first problem in the final I ended up on fourth place in the competition, which was a bit of a disappointment. But there will be more competitions soon.
Congratulations to the all the winners!
Thursday, November 17, 2011
Sardinia
I wrote this a week ago but forgot to post it…
The trip to Sardinia was great, even if it was off-season and all the restaurants were closed…
The climbing the first few days weren’t too impressive and almost every route was on slab or vertical wall with tiny holds. I didn’t like it too much but it was good finger training!
So the second half of the week we moved to another city, to climb at another area. Here the climbing was much better, step climbing mostly on pockets. The climbing started to go well too, was really getting into climbing after not being able to train that much lately because of school. I was able to do a really nice 8a and try many routes onsight just one after another. Some I did and many I was really close to do, but it was just so fun to try another route even if I was really tired!
The surrounding area was always very beautiful and quit, which was a great bonus. We also had great weather, the whole week, with only a bit of rain during the nights. The big down side was the driving though, the roads very terrible going up the mountains, an 110km drive took more than 3hours!
/Oscar
Monday, October 31, 2011
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
Finally vacation!
It has been very much going on in school lately, so my climbing training has been suffering from that. Not been able to train that much at all, but hopefully the shape will not be too bad.
Here is few pictures though from what I have been up to when I haven't been doing school work
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
The complex game of competitions and a never ending story about illness
Two weekends ago it was an EYS competition in the Austrian town of Imst. We were a quite big team from Sweden, 7 competitors and 2 team leaders.
Overall it was a lot of climbers as many nations had already arrived to Austria for the Youth World Championshis, which are being held two weeks after the EYS. In my category it was 63 climbers. The competition was held on a new outdoor wall, which can easily be described as stunning.
My first route had a quite bouldering start on smaller holds. It felt great and I passed the first hard part easily. I was supposed to clip and I moved my centre of gravity to get a better position, but when I was to pull the rope up my left foot just flew of the wall and so did I. Disappointing as I had still power to go!
On the second route, a more pumpy route, the climbing felt good and I was able to get a few holds even after I got the real pumped. When I got down I thought I had done pretty ok.
When I saw the result later I got a bit chocked, I had done better on the first route than on the second one (compared to the other competitors). So on the route I thought I done worse on as my foot had popped off I had done better on. Weird!
Matilda S ended up on third place, very good! Overall the Swedish team had a very good competition.
Never ending story about illness…
The day after the competition I noticed a big nasty rash on my body while I was doing some exercises for my bad back. I had to go to the Emergency room where I spent the day, while waiting the rash spread to the whole body. My hands went so big that writing this would have been impossible.
I have been at the hospital a few times during the week and they think it’s some kind of allergic reaction but to what they don’t know.
The drugs I got have helped so now I look quite normal again.
Sadly I couldn´t go to Imst for the Youth World Championship this week because of recommedation from my GP and my physical situation…
Sunday, August 7, 2011
A great time!, led to a bad thing
I also spent some days in AlingsĂ„s to visit Carlos and climb at Korpaberget. I tried to do Kjesarens nya KlĂ€der, which is a short 7c+/8a. The weather was great for being on the beach but not for climbing hard routes…
Already on my first try I noticed that I got stronger, from not being able to basically do any moves last year I could do them all. Unfortunately I was never able to send it but I got really close, many times. Now I have a good excuse to go back.
After that it was a training camp in Gothenburg, with the Swedish team and its training group. We all had a great week, climbing on both real rock and at the climbing gyms. It was also a great chance to try a lot of onsight climbing before the competitions in Imst. Did a lot of nice routes, nothing really hard but many of them were 3 star routes, with the hardest being 7c at Granitgrottan.
Me finding a no-hands on a route at the amazing cliff, TrÀleberget
Sadly in the end of the week I hurt my shoulder while doing a weird movement. I pulled but my right shoulder was locked in its position and gave out extreme pain. No climbing since that, hopefully I can go to Imst this Friday.
The chiropractor told me that my shoulder and spine were looked in a bad position and blocked the muscles. I was really weak in right arm compered to my left arm, which is fine. Going back on Tuesday, hope its better then.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
Climbing in the north
Last week I was visiting my grand parents in the north Sweden. I was not only relaxing at their house or on their boat I also did some climbing.
Two times I climbed at Niemisel, which is one of the best sport climbing cliffs in Sweden and especially for hard climbing.
First time it was 27 degrees in the shadow and the wall is facing south so it was unbelievably hot! Just climbed some easy stuff; it was too hot for me.
Second time was a bit better, mainly because we were there a lot earlier, which made climbing much nicer. I tried a 7c called Great Blondino, which is a long and pumpy route without any real hard moves. Not my style, the fewer move the better…;-)
I was struggling with keeping the pump away but I got one really good try one. On the last ‘hard’ move I put my foot too high in a huge crack and in the middle move my foot popped and I fell of…
Anyway I will be back soon, it’s such a good cliff.
The boulder session went better, even if the mosquitos almost killed us, I was able to do one 7A+ and one 7B quite quickly.
Pictures 1 and 3 Maria Krumlinde Picture 2 Miranda Jiglund
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
The year is over!
My school really support sports, so on the second last day of school they gave out prizes for different sports that students have been able to do after school. I must say I was a proud Scandinavian that day, Sweden, Finland and Norway got most of the prizes! You get a bit patriotic when you go to an international school…
I won the prize for the best overall athlete, I´m really happy for that☺
To go to an international school is different in the way you know that many of your friends will leave in the end of the year and move somewhere else. I have never seen so many sad faces on the last day of school, everyone is saying goodbye to some of their friends. The people that are staying see their friends leave before the summer and see new ones arriving in the autumn.
A last goodbye…
Friday, June 24, 2011
Saturday, June 18, 2011
London weather
Friday, June 17, 2011
Marmot Rock North Wales The Movie
Sunday, June 12, 2011
Senaste tiden!
Helgen efter skulle jag Äka pÄ en Europacup, men jag var tvungen att stÀlla in den dÄ jag fortfarande var sjuk.
Enda fina dagen var första!
Efter att Àntligen blivit bÀttre Äkte jag till Wales för att delta i Marmot Rock Trip. Det var klÀttrare frÄn Marmots Europa team som samlades. VÀdret var inte alls det bÀsta men vi hade kul. Jag klÀttrade bara trad, mesta dels med Lucy Creamer. Det blev multi-pitch, enkel pitch och sjöklippor (alltid i en vind stark nog att blÄsa av oss frÄn klippan). Det var fantastiskt att fÄ klÀttra alla fina leder och trÀffa nytt folk.
HÀr Àr vad Lucy skrev om veckan och om vÄr klÀttring;
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Kalymnos+ 2 filmer
Ăr nu tillbaka frĂ„n en fantastisk resa pĂ„ Kalymnos.
Vi lÀmnade ett vÀldigt varmt London för att Äka till den lilla Grekiska ön Kalymnos.
Det var ett betydligt kallare land vi anlÀnde till!! SÄ dunjackan skulle komma att bli vÀl anvÀnd.
De första dagarna av resan var tunga pÄ grund av att förkylningen fortfarande kÀndes i kroppen. Allt eftersom förkylningen försvann började jag klÀttra bÀttre.
Jag började fÄ fler och fler leder klÀttrade med den stora höjdpunkten var att göra min tredje 8a, Daniboy. Leden Àr en av de finaste lederna jag har klÀttrat, 20 meter av varierande klÀttring pÄ en brant vÀgg.
Mycket imponerande var att ocksĂ„ Fredrik S gjorde samma led 20 minuter efter mig som sin första 8a! Delad glĂ€dje dubbel glĂ€dje…
Daniboy 8a Kalymnos from Oscar Krumlinde on Vimeo.
KlÀttringen kÀndes fortsatt vÀldigt bra och det tidigare vÀldigt kalla vÀdret övergick till att bara vara kallt.
Fortsatte att prova hÄrdare leder. Lyckades fÄ gjort Orion 7c+, var öns mest klÀttrade 8a innan den blev nedgraderad. Leden Àr 20 meter lÄng men svÄrigheten Àr en fyra moves lÄngt kraftfullt crux vilket passar mig vÀldigt bra.
Orion 7c+ Kalymnos from Oscar Krumlinde on Vimeo.
NÀsta led var en betydligt lÀngre 7c+, Marci Marc, 30 meter ihÄllande klÀttring med cruxet 23 meter upp. Sedan Àr det en 7 meter lÄng run-out upp till ankaret. Fick gjort den pÄ första försöket pÄ sista dagen, sedan kunde jag bara njuta av en av de första varma dagarna.
Friday, April 8, 2011
Kalymnos
Om nÄgra timmar gÄr planet till Kalymnos, paradiset!
Monday, March 28, 2011
BÀsta tÀvlingen nÄgonsin, JSM!
PÄ fredagen lÀmnade jag ett vÀldigt varmt, 18,5 grader, London för att Äka till ett betydligt kallare Göteborg, för att vara med i JSM lead.
TÀvlingen gick i Göteborgs nya "KlÀtterlabbet", grymt bra hall Àr nog den bÀsta i Sverige!
Kvalet: under led ett gick klÀttringen vÀldigt bra upp till 2/3 av vÀggen nÀr jag skulle göra ett halv lÄngt move dÄ min ena fot plötsligt sticker och jag hÀnger i repet innan jag har hunnit reagera.
Led tvÄ gick bÀttre och klÀttringen fungerade bra fram tills pumpen satte ett naturligt stopp. Jag gick vidare till finalen som tvÄa, efter att ha varit 5:a pÄ första leden och 1:a pÄ andra leden, med Philip i ledningen.
Final: alla tre killklasser hade samma led. KlÀttringen gick vÀldigt bra och jag gick lÀtt förbi det hÄrda cruxflyttet runt taket och fortsatte upp mot det lite flackare partiet och senare mot de branta partiet. NÀr jag skulle göra en invridning och korsa över fick jag ett "hjÀrnslÀpp" och gjorde nÄgot konstigt halvt hopp. Fick inte tag i pinchen och föll av. Hade jag fÄtt pinchen hade jag bara behövt ta de det bra greppet precis bredvid, hoppat och touchat nÀsta grepp för en vinst, vilket jag tyvÀrr inte gjorde. IstÀllet gick guldet till Hannes.
Grattis, och jag fick nöja mig med ett silver. Intressant var att bara tre pojkar tog sig förbi krux flyttet, jag Hannes och Rasmus (som vann sin klass). Resten av dagen spenderades till att fÄ ett grymt bra trÀningspass pÄ all leder.
Den absolut bÀsta tÀvlingen i Sverige tack vare grym kvalité pÄ lederna och schysst stÀmning. Stort tack till arrangörerna och till ledbyggarna James och Björn!
Friday, March 25, 2011
BBC
Thursday, March 24, 2011
Packning, hur mycket behöver man egentligen?
Monday, March 21, 2011
MadRock
Efter att ha varit sjuk under förra veckan och inte kunnat klÀttrat nÄgot var det grymt kul att Äter fÄ klÀttra. Det blev Ànnu roligare att klÀttra nÀr jag fick göra det i de nya MadRock Demon 2.0.
Friday, March 11, 2011
Film frÄn Tenerife
La Techin 7c, Arico from Oscar Krumlinde on Vimeo.
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
Bubangos Cream, 8a
Bubangos Cream, 8a Arico from Oscar Krumlinde on Vimeo.
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Teneriffa+ film
Nu var jag hemma efter en trevlig klÀtter- och solresa med familjen till Teneriffa.
VÀdret var vÀldigt fint hela resan, tyvÀrr blev det ibland lite för varmt för mig att klÀttra i solen. Var man dock tidigt vid klippan sÄ var det svalt och skönt.
Dagarna gick, vÀdret var fortfarande bra och klÀttringen kÀndes minst lika bra. Gjorde ett 7c onsight försök, kom förbi kruxet men tyvÀrr missbedömde jag ett av de sista greppen och föll. TvÄ centimeter till höger med handen och man Àr hemma men det Àr ju det som Àr tjusningen med onsight klÀttring, man Àr aldrig 100 % pÄ vad man ska göra. Fick gjort den pÄ andra försöket i alla fall.
TrÀffade ocksÄ nÄgra vÀldigt trevliga svenskar pÄ klippan, alltid kul nÀr man lÀr kÀnna nytt folk.
Riktigt fin led som var nÄgot annorlunda frÄn andra leder jag har klÀttrat dÄ man mÄste göra smÄ fingerjam i kruxet.
KlÀttrade ocksÄ en del andra vÀldigt fina leder av hög kvalitet, kan varmt rekommendera en resa hit för klÀttring och sol.
Las reinas de Cuenca, 7c Arico from Oscar Krumlinde on Vimeo.
Se den pÄ Vimeo för HD kvalité!
Saturday, February 5, 2011
TerrÀng- och klÀttertÀvling
bmc ycs round 2 from buzz martin on Vimeo.
Monday, January 31, 2011
Nya MadRock!
Sunday, January 30, 2011
Sjuk!
Monday, January 24, 2011
En jÀmn tÀvling, SIBL!
10p flash
7p andra försöket
3p tredje försöket
1p 4+ försök
Det skulle bli en vÀldigt jÀmn tÀvling mellan mig och Jonny. Vi bÄde flashade 19 problem, innan det var dags för det sista problemet. DÀr vi behövde en hel del försök, men till slut klarade vi bÄda problemet.
Sà nu var vi lika pÄ 196p.
Det blev en Head to Head, en superfinal nĂ€r man klĂ€ttrar ett lĂ„ngt boulderproblem pĂ„ tid. Ăven hĂ€r var det svĂ„rt att skilja oss! Vi touchade samma grepp, dock var jag ett antal sekunder snabbare Ă€n honom, sĂ„ jag vann pĂ„ det!
Grymt kul med dessa vÀldigt spÀnnande tÀvlingar som inte avgörs förrÀn in i det sista!
Under tÀvlingen klÀttrade jag i den senaste MadRock skon, Con-Tact 2.0. Grymma!!
Monday, January 17, 2011
Second place in the British Bouldering Championship!
Söndagen den 16 januari var det Brittiska Junior MÀsterskapen i bouldering. TÀvlingen avgjordes under The Outdoor Show utanför London, vilket Àr en stor Ärlig mÀssa med mÄnga besökare.
Arrangörerna hade byggt upp en stor vÀgg i mitten av lokalen, full med olika boxar och volymer.
Det som skiljer Junior tÀvlingar i UK frÄn Sverige Àr att alla juniorer tÀvlar i samma klass, vi var 40 stycken pojkar som tÀvlade mot varandra, kul.
I kvalet var det 10 problem som skulle klaras av inom loppet av 2 timmar. Reglerna var simpla:
10p för flash
7p andra försöket
4p tredje försöket
PÄ det sÀttet blir kvalet ocksÄ vÀldigt spÀnnande, man fÄr inte göra för mÄnga misstag om man vill gÄ till final!
Kvalet gick bra, gjorde dock ett fÄtal klantiga missar och var lite nervös inför hur det skulle sluta. Det slutade dock vÀldigt bra nÀr jag flashade ett problem som ingen annan lyckades redpointa.
Efter att ha suttit i isolering var det dags att möta de fyra final problemen. Det var vanliga IFSC regler, onsight, antal toppar och bonusar man klarar pÄ antal försök. Vi hade 5 minuter pÄ varje problem och 5 minuter vila i mellan varje.
Problem 1: Gjorde jag lÀtt pÄ andra försöket, blev nerkallad pÄ första dÄ mitt lite för lÄnga ben touchade ett out-of-bounds omrÄde.
Problem 2: Klarade jag ocksÄ pÄ andra försöket. Cool blandning mellan styrka och teknik.
Problem 3: Det hÀr problemet lyckades jag bara ta bonusgreppet, föll nÄgra gÄngen precis innan slutet. Alla grepp var mini-crimps, sÄ jag fick verkligen ta i för att hÄlla mig kvar, nÄgonting att trÀna pÄ!
Problem 4: Lyckades jag flasha, inte sÄ svÄrt, min stil. Större grepp, korsningar och en kort dyno/catch i slutet.
Jag blev tvÄa i tÀvlingen vilket jag Àr jÀtte nöjd med! Vilken bra start pÄ Äret, och förra Äret slutade ju ocksÄ vÀldigt bra.
VÀldigt bra tÀvling med schyssta boulders och bra tÀvlingsledare.
Det var ocksÄ en stor publik, minst 200-300, vilket alltid gör tÀvlingar lite bÀttre.
Bouldering is actually really fun!